Before returning to my residence in Argentina from Peru, I decided to spend a day in Arequipa, the legendary city of white, constructed out of a white rock that was left over from nearby volcanic eruptions. Arequipa really was, at least for me, the most beautiful part of my trip, and complementing that beauty was a popping dining scene that really gave some of the other more popular cities of Peru a run for their money. And the thing to note about the Arequipenian culinary culture is really the uniqueness. Not only does it have its own regional style (which I did get to experience during lunchtime), but Arequipa also has a certain cosmopolitanism that I also saw glimpses of in Cusco. One of the results is a restaurant like Zig Zag, which was really one of the oddities of my trip—Swiss and Peruvian/Alpandina cuisine, in the form of a steakhouse.

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Coming from Argentina, I had had my fair share of steakhouses, but nothing like Zig Zag, where the focus is less on high quality beef and more on gamier, leaner, and healthier meats, like ostrich and alpaca, all grilled on stone. And it’s a smart marketing slogan, too, as Zig Zag boasts its “healthy” meat options as both a way to experiment with new flavors and to save on the fat. That really is the main draw of the restaurant, as you’re not going here for the perfect steak, which you probably wouldn’t find in Peru anyway. Rather, it’s an all-around solid steakhouse integrating a lot of styles of cooking and providing an eclectic experience, both in terms of the meats used and in the menu options offered. And while this does feel like a gimmick—and it is—Zig Zag is one of the few places in Peru where you’re just going to get a very well-presented dinner with simple, strong flavors and everything exceptionally well-cooked.

And, to top off the all-around great food, you get a restaurant that’s probably the coolest place in town at nights. Zig Zag is romantic enough to have a nice, intimate dinner for two, and it’s trendy enough for you to go just for the hell of it. While the decorations are somewhat simple, especially along the walls, where the restaurant just chose to expose the plain, beautiful white stone of the city, it has a sense of comfort and restrained classiness. For example, there is a beautiful spiral, twisting staircase that runs lengthwise through the restaurant to connect to a rather small, intimate second floor dining area. Other examples include the candlelight and the loungy red couches. While the seating area is small, there is enough space between tables so you don’t feel uncomfortable. And even the food is aesthetically pleasing—you don’t just get a steak, you get it served on a hot stone tray with little flags on each cut to signify what animal it comes from, for example. This is definitely the place to go to if you’re sick of the somewhat sloppy, boring restaurants that are common in Peru. Zig Zag really does simplicity right. And the service was pretty good, too—everything went off without a hitch, though I didn’t notice anything exceptional.

Overall, then, Zig Zag is a great place to grab a meal, if not for the actual quality of the food, then for the supposed health benefits, the chance to try something new, the chance to get a good steak in Peru, and finally, for the hip vibe. It’s no surprise, then, that Zig Zag really draws out the crowds—you’ll be lucky to get a table.

What I had:

1. Ostrich Tartare: I don’t normally note presentation, but this was a beautiful dish—tomatoes, veggies, 2 mounds of tartare, with an open ostrich egg (showing the yoke). Tastes very fresh. The sun-dried tomatoes really complement the tartare well. Fantastic, full chunks of meat—again, very fresh and flavorful. Tastes kind of like a nice sashimi. Also, there is tons of meat. The yoke is more for presentation—it’s flavor is unnecessary. Also, some of the veggies don’t complement the meat. 4.3/5.0
2. Trilogy of Meats (Ostrich, Beef, and Alpaca, served with fried yucca): Again, beautiful presentation—a sizzling meat platter, with 3 separated mounds of meat, 3 sauces, and a mound of fishstick-like fried yucca. The sides are fantastic—the yucca is golden and crispy, just enough. A ratatouille of veggies (zucchini, pepper, and tomato) is also provided, and it is well-cooked and flavorful. The meat is cooked well, too, with just enough redness to it. In all honesty, though, the 3 sauces (butter with anchovies, tartar sauce, and a combination of ketchup and mayo) are unnecessary. Not only are they unspectacular, but the meat stands on its own. The ostrich is a little too chewy (due to the nature of the meat) and way too salty for my taste. The alpaca is more to my liking, but it’s still slightly salty. The beef is also great and much less salty, but its quality isn’t the greatest, especially considering I was traveling from Argentina, where the meat is phenomenal. Still, the cuts are succulent and properly cooked, and the concept of the dish is nice. Plus, it’s HUGE. Good luck finishing this sucker, even if you’re a steak-lover. 3.5/5.0
3. 3-chocolate mousse with Peruvian cacao: Not bad. Rich and gritty (in a good way). Dark milk chocolate flavor comes through, and the sweetness is just right. Not cloying at all. The quality is rather good, but still, it’s just a normal chocolate mousse. 3.0

Ambience: 4.2+/5.0
Service: 3.2/5.0
Food: 3.7/5.0
Value: 3.7/5.0
Overall Score: 3.7/5.0