Geno’s Steaks

Posted by Edmund in Cheesesteak, Featured Articles, Philadelphia, Restaurants | 0 comments

Cuisine: Fast Food.
Specialty: Philly Cheesesteak.
Location: 1219 South 9th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19147-5005.
Price: $8.50 for a Cheesesteak.

I had come to Philly for the first time ever to do an all-night, sleepless Food Bust of the local cheesesteak scene, and my very first cheesesteak had failed to impress me in any way (see my review of Jim’s Steaks for further details). I was looking for revenge, and I went on to the next stop on my list ready for a true Philly cheesesteak experience.

That stop happened to be Geno’s, not only one of the two renowned kings of the Philly cheesesteak, but also perhaps the single gaudiest, most over-the-top fast food joints I’ve ever seen in my life.

Let me put it into perspective, just to give you a better sense. I was in Philly with two of my friends, and we were all tuckered out from aimlessly wandering the city’s rather ominous-looking streets at 1 am at night, looking for the two legendary archrivals of the Philly cheesesteak, Pat’s and Geno’s. Finally at around 2 am, we arrived at the famous corner that houses both of these titans, only to be greeted by flashing neon signs. In contrast to the much lower-key, old-fashioned Pat’s, Geno’s practically screamed its name, drawing our eyes with its bright signs and colors, the endless number of celebrity photos that cover everything from the ceiling to the tables, and its quirky sense of super pro-American humor (expect lots of tongue-in-cheek anti-immigrant jokes).

For all the show, however, the cheesesteak actually hit the spot, though it wasn’t the masterpiece I’d expect from one of Philly’s two grandmasters. I ordered the traditional Philly cheesesteak, loaded with just whiz cheese and onions. Though it was very simple, the ingredients still worked very well together. The bread was soft and fluffy, but not so doughy, allowing me to taste the meat in full force. The onions, too, were great. They were grilled but not too greasy, and they were never overbearing. They tasted very fresh as well. Most importantly, the meat quality was great. Since it came in large chunks, it was very succulent, and because it was very well-cooked and lean, it didn’t leave me feeling bloated at all. Still, it wasn’t all that flavorful, lacking seasoning.

My one big complaint would be with the whiz cheese. It was a great complement in that it added a nicely gooey texture, but it was a bit artificial tasting, as I’ve noticed whiz cheese tends to be in general. I wanted to keep to the traditional Philly cheesesteak, but I’d recommend subbing out the whiz for a more typical cheese, like provolone. Still, the sandwich had good meat, a nice sweetness, and great bread, so it gets at least a thumb up. Score: 3.8/5.0

I also had a chance to try the cheese fries, loaded with even more of that disturbingly fake whiz cheese. This time around, though, the whiz wasn’t quite so tame. Since the fries were overloaded with it, I could truly taste just how artificial, fatty, and cloying the cheese was. It was, in fact, akin to eating nacho cheese.

Moreover, the fries themselves were subpar, coming off as bland. They were also way too salty to be edible. To be fair, they were on the well-formed side, without much mushiness, allowing them to stand up to the weight of cheese. Still, the cheese fries were a complete failure. Score: 0.0/5.0

With that, I’ll turn to the big question that I’m sure is on everyone’s mind: How does one of the original masters of the cheesesteak stack up against the competition? Does tradition actually equate to taste?

Partially, yes. Geno’s cheesesteak more than surpassed my expectations, especially after my underwhelming experience at Jim’s.

Is the cheesesteak really worth $8.50, though? No! While Geno’s may be an essential tourist stop in Philadelphia, the cheesesteak doesn’t thrill the fast food lover in me.

Geno’s, then, definitely isn’t the end-all-and-be-all Philly cheesesteak.

Scores (For the Cheesesteak Only)

Taste: 3.8/5.0
Value: 1.5/5.0
Overall Score: 2.8/5.0