Incanto

Posted by Edmund in Peru, Peruvian, Restaurants | 0 comments

Incanto
Traditional Peruvian
$15 to $25

Santa Catalina Angosta 135
Cusco, Peru

I was traveling through Cusco, looking for some restaurants that I had plotted on my map, when a random Peruvian came up to me and began pitching his restaurant. Typically, I’m not a sucker. I do my research, and if I haven’t heard of it, it’s probably not something I want to eat at, especially while I’m on vacation. As with most South Americans, though, Peruvians are just great people in general—warm, amiable, and just so likable that it’s hard to refuse them. The guy even offered me a free pisco sour, and that just wrapped up the deal (how can you say no to free alcohol?). So, while I managed to get away, I did promise to return for a lunch, and I did return to try out Incanto (literally, “enchantment”).

Incanto really delivers on the traditional Peruvian fare. Whereas most highly rated restaurants try to differentiate themselves with more European flavors, Incanto sticks to the classics, innovating a tad, but sticking to Peruvian flavors. Ironically, the owner has another restaurant, Limo Cocina Peruano, in Cusco on the opposite side of the spectrum, which has as its catch that it takes all the Peruvian classics and infuses them with completely new flavors. I tried both, and I quite frankly prefer the less contrived simplicity of Incanto, which uses traditional dishes, which may not be the best, but which are very authentic.

The restaurant itself isn’t much to talk about. It’s just a medium-sized eatery with a nice bar and some good, open seating, and the service is decent. The tables are very simple and there is almost no decoration on the completely whitewashed walls. Nor does the food really jump out, but like I said, this is one of the decent places in Cusco where you can really try Peruvian cuisine. So all in all, it’s an average/good local place that’s worth a shot if you’ve already been to the better restaurants in Cusco.

1. Suspiro a la limeña (mousse with meringue and cinnamon), with dulce de leche. This is a very traditional Peruvian dessert. Very sweet, and a sharp cinnamon taste. But very good—nice mix of fruitiness, sugar, and cinnamon. Only problem: can be cloyingly sweet, especially with the meringue (though it’s well-made). Mouse also cloying at times—too rich. Still, well-made, with interesting flavors. Use of dulce de leche adds some needed sweetness. 2.5/5.0
2. Mushroom and Artichoke Ceviche: Pretty standard stuff. Tad spicy, very citrusy, but no meat—seems wrong for a ceviche. Without the meat component, very much lighter. Still retains the freshness, but just not enough substance. 1.0/5.0
3. Seco Cordero (Lamb in green pea sauce with tacu tacu, i.e. rice, beans, and/or yellow potatoes): Pretty good. Sauce clashes a tad, but the ingredients are great. Tacu Tacu is a little gritty as usual—odd texture. Lamb is tough (I think on purpose, since the name is literally “dry lamb”), but it’s very well-cooked and is the highlight of the dish. Potato and rice cake adds some much needed rich starch.  3.0/5.0
4. Mousse of Pisco Sour (made with Gran Comodoro Acholado Pisco): Very bold. Mixes a strong alcohol taste with nice sweetness. The sauce is sweet and fruity, but not overpowering. The mousse itself is very well-done. Smooth as gelato but with a nice tanginess to it, combined with the aftertaste of the bitter in a Pisco Sour (drops of bitter herbs they put in the pisco). Not my favorite flavor profile, but the taste is very interesting—refreshingly citrusy, and the lime works to balance the sweetness to a degree. 3.0 (3.5 for the creativity)

Ambience: 2.0/5.0
Service: 2.5/5.0
Taste: 2.5/5.0
Value: 2.5/5.0. Pricey by Peruvian standards.
Overall Score: 2.5/5.0