Map Cafe

Posted by Edmund in Fine Dining, Peru, Restaurants | 0 comments

French, Fine Dining.
125 soles ($45) for a Pisco sour with 3 courses.
Plaza Nazarenas 231 in the Museo de Arte Precolombino, Cusco, Peru

I had just spent a whole day exploring Ourzazate, the most famous ruins surrounding Cusco in Macchu Picchu, and I had returned famished, as I often do from my traveling expeditions. Being the first night of my Cusquenian experience, however, I decided to give myself a special treat, and that was MAP Café, a restaurant that really stands out in Cusco for a couple reasons. First, it is quite possibly the only full-on fine dining experience, with European-style professional service and a rather formal ambience (though, as with almost all cities in South America, guests are allowed to go dressed as casually as they like—although I was slightly underdressed in my jeans, I had no issues whatsoever). Second, and this is the real kicker, it’s located in the Museo de Arte Precolombino (Museum of Pre-Columbus Art), which means that guests receive not only a meal in one of the best locations in town, but that they are actually allowed free entrance at night to the museum itself. It’s quite the deal for lovers of art, especially at a price of only about $45.

Now, if that seems a big too gimmicky to you—after all, how good can a museum’s restaurant be?—then you think just like I do. And I’ve really got to say, this is one of those mythical restaurants that not only lives up to the hype but even surpasses it.

As I walked in, I was a little hesitant at first, since it was pitch black, and I could barely see a thing in the museum. As I went into the courtyard, though, I saw a large, transparent glass house, with only about 10 tables, dimly lit by lovely candlelight. That’s the restaurant!—You actually get to eat in a beautiful glass house, right in the middle of the very courtyard, but completely isolated from the darkness and cold, making for a really weird and rather amusing contrast between the interior and the rather stark exterior of the restaurant.

And the overall restaurant’s vibe is just as great. Since you’re in a glass box, there’s a nice, calm seclusion and exclusivity to the experience, a feeling which is only amplified by how few tables there are and the gigantic size of the courtyard itself.  Topping off this beautiful, isolated, intimate area is live harp music, which, while not my cup of tea, really does suit the ambience well. All this makes for a fantastically intimate experience, and this would be the perfect place for a romantic evening, especially for a low price. This is hands down one of the loveliest places I’ve dined at.

The service only adds to the experience. It is very formal, with numerous waiters assigned to different tasks. The waiters are very well trained and unobtrusive, yet they retain the Peruvian amicability. In fact, I can attest to how friendly they are because I actually ran into my waiter at a bar two days later and had a nice conversation with him. No problems whatsoever in this regard.

Finally, I get to the food, the key factor. I can’t say the food blew my mind, but it was still fantastic. The presentation especially stood out—everything was beautifully organized, with a variety of colors, etc. And the taste was right on, giving a very unique take to traditional Peruvian flavors. The Aji de Gallina, for example, came with yellow potatoes instead of rice and had some nuts and cheese, and the dessert was just a unique array of indigenous varieties of Peruvian corn presented in different forms like ice cream. While I’m not a fan of “vanguard” cooking, this time I think they hit the nail on its head, really utilizing the flavors well to create a new taste sensation rather than just for presentational effect.

I just can’t stop singing praise for this restaurant. While it wasn’t the best food I’ve had, the quality is undeniable in almost every regard. In fact, I would go so far as to say that $45 for a meal here is a steal, given that the ambience, service, and presentation are just so incredible—and this is coming from someone who typically devalues those aspects of a restaurant. If you’re ever in Cusco and want a true dining experience, this is the place to find it, without a doubt.

What I had:

1. Bread: 2 types—one on the salty side and very crisp, other is perfectly fluffy. Serve with a great olive oil and balsamic blend—refreshing and sweet.
2. Appetizer: Capchi de Setas (i.e. Fava bean and Andean mushroom medley with a Capchi casserole)—Cooked like a chicken pot pie and then top removed. Bread off top is perfect—kind of creamy, not too oily, and soft as hell. Bit too spicy b/c of the use of the hellish chilis from Peru, but nice. Like a rich, creamy, and well-spiced soup with many veggies. Mushrooms blend perfectly. Filling. 4.3/5.0
3. Entrée: Aji de Gallina (Traditional Peruvian dish of shredded chicken in a creamy sauce with nuts, Parmesan, mirasol chili peppers, and yellow potato)—Beautiful dish, with all the colors. Potatoes are great—chunky and yet creamy. A little tough but mix well w/ egg and cheese into a fondue-like concoction, though the blend of ingredients is far from ideal. Chicken is well-cooked but plain—just grilled. Components are all decent. 3.0-3.5/5.0
4. Dessert: Lightly sautéed strawberries with purple corn (chicha) syrup, served alongside corn ice cream and a toasted corn praline—Wonderful, though small. Ice cream is fantastic—smooth and creamy. The syrup is sweet, but not cloying. The strawberries add a nice lightness and a relatively sourer flavor to balance the heavier, sweeter components.  Strawberries are still the weak link, in my opinion. 4.0/5.0. Extremely unique, and a great taste of Peruvian flavors.

Ambience: 5.0/5.0
Service: 4.7/5.0
Food: 4.0/5.0
Value: 4.5+/5.0. Food and a museum! Just can’t beat that. Plus, it’s the cheapest truly fine dining experience I’ve ever had in my life.
Verdict: 4.5/5.0. 4.7 if you’re looking for a romantic/intimate dinner in Peru. The best “professional” dining experience I had in Peru.