T.W. Food: 4-Course Shiraz Pairing

Posted by Edmund in Boston, Eclectic, Featured Articles, Restaurants | 0 comments

Nov 03, 10

Cuisine: Eclectic, Artisanal.

Address: 377 Walden St # A, Cambridge, MA 02138-1348.

Price: $49 for 4 courses and a wine pairing on Tuesdays.

There are two things in this world that I’m a sucker for: a good deal and a good glass of wine. When I can get both at the same time, I’m practically in heaven.

I was more than a little excited, then, when I got an invite from In Vino Veritas (Harvard’s wine society) for the Tuesday night wine pairing at T.W. Food, where you get 4 courses paired with 4 wines for $49. Normally, when I hear the words “wine pairing,” I’m immediately suspicious, knowing that I’m going to get ripped off in some manner or another with subpar wines. But a 4-course wine pairing for $49? I didn’t even know that was possible, especially in a pricey city like Boston. This meal isn’t just show, either—from what I’ve read, T.W.’s been gathering somewhat of a cult following for its Tuesday night meals. Needless to say, I signed up for the dinner with no hesitation whatsoever.

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Last Tuesday, the day of the In Vino dinner finally arrived, and I, along with 27 other passionate wine and food lovers, raided the surprisingly small T.W. Food, taking over more than half the seats in the tiny restaurant. As I entered, I was drawn into the warm, homey atmosphere. While the restaurant is incredibly small and simple, it is very quaint. Normally, I’m not one to enjoy an overly simple, homey vibe, but at T.W. it’s very well-done. On the surface, the décor really doesn’t seem like much: Plain white walls are decorated with equally plain white tables and chairs, a few colorful geometric designs, and bright lighting. Everything comes together, though, with a certain vividness that leaves you feeling very comfortable in the private, intimate setting.

The service was, for the most part, excellent as well. Given how small the area is, I was surprised at how slow the service could be at times, such as with water, but for a restaurant at this price range, the staff was very well-trained. The waiters, for example, paced the meal properly, never rushing any of the diners by removing plates or replacing silverware before the whole table had finished, even though some members of our 7-person table finished courses 30 minutes after others. Even better, when I attempted to walk through the rather small dining area on my way to the restroom, the waitress nearby completely stopped her tasks on the side and made way for me, even though she probably wouldn’t have gotten in the way. For that type of attention to detail, the lack of promptness was a small price to pay.

As for the wine pairing, I have to admit I was impressed, though not overly thrilled with the choice of wines. The theme of the night was Shiraz, what I’d consider a very flavorful, in-your-face varietal, emphasizing intense spice and pepper. To my surprise, the restaurant went with a slightly different route, emphasizing earthier, more mineral-flavored Syrahs, which probably do make for a better pairing with most food options. The wines weren’t the greatest, but I do commend T.W. for a couple aspects of the pairing. First, they began with the simplest wines and gradually increased the complexity, so that, while I began with a rather light, accessible wine for my appetizer, my last non-dessert Syrah hit me full force with fruits, pepper, and a bit of nicely wild acidity. In that sense, they truly accomplished the idea of a flight, working up in complexity so that simpler, less aggressive wines would not be overshadowed by previous options. T.W.’s method works very well as an introduction to a varietal by presenting a wide range of different styles even within the same varietal and gradually acclimating the palate to wines that may be tougher to appreciate. And, to be fair, while these weren’t the best wines, you can’t really expect knockouts when you’re getting 4 glasses and 4 courses for $49.

Just as importantly, though, the wine wasn’t a peripheral part of the meal but rather took center stage with the dishes, as T.W. attempted to place each wine as a counterbalance to the flavors of its corresponding dish. Even among the wines I didn’t enjoy quite so much, like the Syrah port, I could appreciate the slight nuance the wine added into the dish. For example, for dessert a red wine poached pear with cassis ice cream was served alongside a glass of Syrah port, which had a surprisingly dry, bittersweet taste to it, as though it were not even fortified. That slight dry bitterness, however, played off very well against the sweeter, richer, creamier flavors within the dessert. At the same time, the pairings weren’t all perfect, and I was left questioning why a bland Scottish salmon was served with a glass of monotonous, earthy, muddy Syrah. For decades, fish and red wine have been enemies, and this wine pairing showed exactly why.

That type of oversight is ultimately the impression the meal left, unfortunately. In terms of food, everything I tasted was actually good, but nothing stunned me, except perhaps the dessert. Going along with the wine theme, T.W. really worked to incorporate some type of red wine into every single dish, but all too often it felt forced. For example, my appetizer, a red-wine caramelized onion soup, lured me in with its promise of bold ingredients. Yet, upon tasting it, I was left with the impression that it was more cream than anything else, lacking almost any sweetness from the onions and having just a slight red wine oakiness. My entrée, a Scottish salmon served with a gritty lentil and pork ragout, struck me as even more of a conundrum. The fish was not only underseasoned, but the accompaniment that was meant to compensate for its blandness completely overshadowed the whole fish with its grittiness and its far more savory and earthy flavor. Neither the fish nor the ragout was bad, but they just didn’t belong on the same plate. Still, I commend the overall quality of the meal. Every ingredient was fresh, everything was well-cooked, the fish was succulent, and the wines were paired well.

Regardless of the few quibbles I may have with the food, though, I left T.W. Food completely satisfied. For $49, I got 4 great dishes, 4 well-paired wines, a classy and intimate ambience, and outstanding service. Sure, the food may not be spot-on, but when you’re getting this much of a value, it’s hard to make so much of a few technical shortcomings.

And, at the end of the day, nothing beats sharing a nice glass of wine with some good friends and fellow foodies. At T.W., that type of evening is not just a possibility. It’s practically guaranteed.

What I Had

Red-Wine Caramelized Onion Soup

Beignets with Crème Fraîche

A bit of a disappointment, though a great soup regardless. I was expecting something with a heavy focus on caramelized onions—sweet, slightly gritty, very earthy, etc. Here, however, you get quite the opposite, with the focus on the heavy richness of the soup, which verges on cheesy, even though cheese isn’t even one of the ingredients. Expect a rather simple flavor, as the soup sinks down smoothly, leaving a coating of richness across the whole palate. I do like the use of wine, which adds just a hint of oaky bitterness to counterbalance the equally subtle hint of sweetness from the onions, along with leaving a slightly zesty aftertaste that relieves some of the richness of the soup. Still, this is very one-dimensional. The beignets are another story, though. Perfectly fluffy and doughy, they practically melt in your mouth, oozing a bit of butter onto the palate and leaving a light fried dough taste, in the best way possible. It’s largely those three beignets that make this otherwise bland, though hearty and balanced, soup stand out.

3.8/5.0

Wine Pairing: Mas Carlot, “Les Enfants Terribles”, 2008, Costières de Nîmes, France.

T.W.’s Notes: “Winemaker Natalie Blanc-Marès runs a top estate in the Côstières de Nîmes. The ‘Les Enfants Terribles’ is a reference to her children. Blend of old vine Syrah and Mourvedre – dark fruit, black pepper, violets.”

Nice, ruby color. Not too dark, hitting some lighter hues on the side.

Earthy aroma—dirt, twigs, and red berries are noticeable. It’s a bit musty, like refrigerated fruit.

The taste is a bit weak and light for me, though the spice at the end is nice. For a syrah this wine is surprisingly subtle—perhaps a good way to start off a meal but not to my liking. It starts out light and smooth, with a big body for something so young. It quickly becomes wild and acidic, however, hitting the palate a bit roughly. It’s not very round, either. Blackberries, oak, slight bitter chocolate, subtle raspberries, and heavy tannic pepper are present. The end is intensely spicy. Moreover, the wine picks up a lot of fruit as it airs out, tempering its wildness. It’s still just too watery.

3.2/5.0

Scottish Salmon

Pan-Seared with Smoked Pork and Lentil Ragoût, Sauce Au Vin Rouge

Probably my least favorite dish of the night, largely because the combination of ingredients seems so confused. To be fair, the salmon is actually cooked quite nicely, redeeming practically the whole dish. While it’s just a little bit tough/overcooked, the center is perfect, oozing with the natural juices and water in the salmon, meaning every bite is moist and tender. I also like the nicely crisped skin on top, providing some crunch. Still, the fish itself is rather bland, with almost no seasoning whatsoever. It thus must rely on the ragout for added complexity. Unfortunately, a lentil ragout is hardly a good accompaniment, instead simply adding an unsatisfying, gritty texture to the otherwise moist, melt-in-your-mouth salmon. I do, however, like the flavors of that ragout, which takes very fresh, nicely cooked lentils and infuses them with a smoky, fatty savoriness from the pork. The combination with the salmon, though, feels forced. Moreover, I had a bite of pure pork fat in the ragout, which tasted awful. Finally, there are some very nicely cooked potatoes in the mix—thinly sliced and just hard enough to give a crunch without any mushiness, while flavorful enough to have just a slight sweetness that helps to bring all the flavors together. Regardless, this is just a poorly composed dish, even though each of the ingredients separately tastes delicious.

3.0/5.0

Wine Pairing: Shiraz, “R” Wines, Strong Arms, 2007, South Australia.

TW’s Notes: “ ‘R’ Wines makes the Strong Arms from Mclaren Vale and Barossa fruit. It is a rich, earthy wine with a lot of lush fruit and minerality: blackberry, blueberry and soft tannins”

A much darker wine with some lighter shades of purple. It’s a little light at the edges.

It has a musty, earthy aroma, much stronger than the last. That aroma packs a lot of fruit, along with some wet mud and fresh rain. It’s a bit monotonous, though.

This wine is much better balanced than the last, too. It’s somewhat over-oaky, and it’s still a bit rough/acidic at the end, but it carries a great body and feel. It’s far less watery than the last, too. It starts off slow, soft, and elegant but soon picks up tons of earthy tones: mud, slight cinnamon, slight berry, and a lot of dark chocolate. It ends with a very controlled fruity spice. It becomes more tannic as it airs, though never overly so. However, it can get monotonous.

3.7+/5.0

Cheese

Landaff, Aged Cow’s Milk, New Hampshire

Served with an Apple, Walnuts, and Crispy Wheat Bread

This, to me, feels more like a palate cleanser than an actual course. Still, I have to say that I enjoy the cheese selection. It is on the neutral side, with just enough of a slightly bitter richness that it has flavor without becoming overwhelming. Moreover, I find that smoothness and neutrality a great counterbalance to both the much more complex wine and the fresh ingredients on the plate—sweet apple, crunchy walnut, and crispy, seedy bread. Those ingredients do, however, seem just a bit tacked on. The bread is very thick and hard, dominating the cheese and making it difficult to eat together with the bread. The other ingredients, which act as better complements, are provided in far too meager amounts—indeed, there are just one thin slice of apple and two small bites of walnut.

3.5-4.0/5.0. I’m not a cheese expert, though, and this score reflects more the synergy among elements than the quality of the cheese itself.

Wine Pairing: Clos la Chance, “Black Chinned”, 2006, Santa Cruz, California.

TW’s notes: “This family owned winery has just been certified sustainable in Santa Cruz, south of San Francisco. The estate Syrah has aromas of blueberry, candied plums, vanilla and spice”

Even darker color than the last. Dark ruby is present on the side, with a bit of purpling. You can tell it’s on the more mature side.

The nicest aroma of the bunch, too. Twigs, grass, and citrus are prominent, along with some pineapple and peaches. It’s a very strong, fresh earthiness.

Finally, some complexity in the taste! It’s still a tad light. But it has the biggest body, the most roundness, and the biggest flavor. It starts out fruity with some blackberries or blueberries, then picks up smoke and hazelnuts, and finally ends with an intense, roasted, peppery spice, infused with just a bit of cinnamon or gingerbread (i.e. a very Christmas taste). Very nicely balanced between fruit and spice, with the least bitterness of the wines I’ve tasted (thankfully). It ends with just enough tannins to leave you puckering.

4.2-4.3/5.0

Red Wine Poached Pears

Frangipane Tartlette (Cream, Almonds, Sugar), Cassis Ice Cream

Easily my favorite dish of the night—and that’s saying a lot, considering that I typically dislike any fruit-based desserts. Here, however, the pears are neither mushy nor overly sour. Instead, they have the right balance between softness and crunch, so that they can be cut through nearly like butter while retaining their form. Moreover, they’re on the sweeter side, but not so much as to be cloying, and the infusion of red wine helps add another layer of balancing, tannic bitterness. Add to that gigantic pear an even better frangipane cookie and a delicious ice cream, and you have the makings of an excellent dessert. The ice cream doesn’t taste like cassis whatsoever, except for a slight overtone of berry fruitiness, but it is so well made, with that nearly whipped gelato-like creaminess that can only come from a fresh homemade batch, that it’s impossible to dislike it. Moreover, it has a very refreshing blast of sweetness, adding balance to the more neutral flavor of the pear. Best of all, though, is the hard, semi-crumbly tartlet on the bottom, which not just soaks up the flavor of the ice cream and the red wine drippings of the pear, but also adds a delicious, gritty, buttery flavor, similar to an extremely delicious pound cake. It also has some crunchy almonds for even more flavor. This dessert, then, gives you incredible complexity: in texture, the gritty, creamy, and pudding-like, while in flavor, the sweet, bitter, fruity, nutty, and buttery.

4.5/5.0

Wine Pairing: Syrah Port, Barnard Griffin, 2008, Washington.

TW’s Notes: “Owners Rob Griffin and Deborah Barnard realized that their Syrah grapes would make great Port! Their winery is situated in the Columbia Valley. Notes of toffee and caramelized fruit – a very unique dessert wine”

Surprisingly soft on the aroma. I don’t get any of that fresh, fruity sweetness I’d expect from a good port. Instead, a subtle apple is present with some oak and gingerbread.

The taste is a bit weak, too. This “port” isn’t all that sweet for dessert. It’s more on the bitter and spicy side, with some oak, gingerbread, blueberries, and cinnamon as overtones. It’s not terribly complex, though, nor is it all that fruity for a ruby port. Still, it’s a great contrast to the sweetness of the dish, counterbalancing it with a bitter Christmas spice. Unfortunately, it is just too dry for me on the finish, leaving me burning too much, and it is very light on flavor, surprisingly so for a port.

3.3/5.0. An excellent pairing, though (4.0 or higher in that regard).

Scores

Ambience: 4.0/5.0
Service: 4.4/5.0
Taste: 3.8/5.0
Wine Pairing: 4.0/5.0
Value: 4.6/5.0
Verdict: 4.1+/5.0